" I'm locked out, it's just a doorstop!" Page
You're locked out and the
door lock doesn't work right, huh?
Usually there's a flat battery
too, so there's no power-unlock to the doors from ANYWHERE - boot, alarm...
It's catch-22, you can't get the bonnet up to jumpstart without opening
the doors without jumpstarting the power without getting the bonnet up...
The main golden rule: don't
panic - there are options.
The classic, approved method
If this doesn't work, the other
alternatives are based around applying 12v to power-up the locks temporarily.
Remember, if you locked up with the "deadlock" feature (you turned the
key to 90 degrees on locking, the doors click twice), then
If using remote locking, GET
Go to the PASSENGERS door...
the manual override is definitely present there. This procedure should
also work on the driver's door too, but it's your choice and one maybe
more difficult than the other.
Put in the key (duh)
Lift the door handle; hold it
Turn the key to the FRONT of
the car; it should hit resistance at about 45 degrees
Carry on turning the key to
90 degrees - it will be stiff, it's meant ot be. Stiff does not mean
turning so hard you break the key or lock. Your car may have problems
or be different - your call. On my car I did find that the door handle
did have a "notch" I could find when trying to also turn the key where
the key would turn better, and that "notch" wasn't when the handle was
held full out
at 90 degrees door lock pin
should pop up
return key to vertical
let handle down
open the door as normal...
cannot get the emergency unlock procedure to work, then it is possible
to open the hood with minimal damage, so you can at least get a jump-start
battery to the jump-start post to power-up the locks (see my Jumpstart
Procedure page for details on how to connect up the battery).
all the other doors are in deadlock
"ignore the pin" mode - so trying to lift a pin through a window won't
the trunk will unlock with a
key, but it won't unlock the rest of the car, even if the battery is providing
may scratch the paint a little on the top of the radiator mounting plate,
some vaseline should waterproof it again. Beware your alarm going off
on the hood "intrusion", too.
a small wire hook out of stiff wire. one end should have a hook about 1cm
internal diameter in it
the front left headlights, looking from the front of the car.
rubber wind-sealing strip on the underside of the front edge of the hood
hook flat, and work it in between the sealing strip and the upper radiator
mounting plate that runs across the top of the headlight cluster. Start
at the leftmost edge of the headlights area; go too far right and you'll
hit the upturn the headlight surround screws onto.
in, approximately pointing towards center of the engine bay.
90 degrees so the hook loop is vertical.
slowly back out, (hopefully) snagging the bonnet release cable on the way
a sharp tug to release the bonnet/hood by pulling the outer AND the inner
of the cable.
In all cases it's up
to you to get the RIGHT battery polarity, and work out if the effort/damage/
risk is worth it. Your car, your call.
After any work.... REMEMBER
TO CHECK THE DOOR LOCKS AGAIN AFTER A MANUAL OPEN... you want your car
You can also lock up this
way by turning the key to the REAR of the car 90 degrees if you've lost
Deadlocking / resynch
The problem with a manually
opened lock is that sometimes they refuse to re-lock... they are stuck
in manual override mode, and won't re-lock under central-locking with the
rest of the car. The steps I've followed to sort this out on my 735 (opened
passenger door on override) were to
This then had the passengers'
door operating as usual and locking/unlocking with the rest of the car.
A similar problem can happen with the trunk lock from memory - I think
it's a variant of the main locks, and it can control the central locking
(but not the deadlock feature) too...
lock the car to deadlock mode
with the central locking (eg turn key in drivers' door to 90 degrees rearward)
then override-lock the passengers'
door - by tuning it to 90degrees towards the FRONT of the car (LOCK, remember
- UNLOCK is 90 degrees towards the rear of the car)
then try a central-locking unlock
of the whole car from the drivers' door -