My 12 injectors looked like this:

I cleaned them with some degreasing solvent and compressed air:

I also cleaned the injector holes (bores) with the same solvent and an old toothbrush (intake manifold removed to clarify the process):

Now comes the tricky part, unbolting the lower bolts of the intake manifold. The trick is to use a 10mm 1/4" socket with a 1/4'' swivel and alot of extensions. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 1/4"-3/8" adapter to apply more torque:

For the lower bolts the 10mm socket must be magnetic to prevent the bolts falling into the valley between both banks (pretty important when reinstalling). I can assure you, no one I know has magnetic sockets. Neither do I, so I used an old trick. Put some wheel bearing grease into the socket (its a bit out of focus, but you'll get the point):

I also greased up the swivel, to make it less flexible. A swivel that swivels to smoothly causes severe headache when you are trying to reach those bolts:

Next pictures are showing the removal of the lower bolts.

REMARK: the photos are showing that my ratchet and extensions use the small space between both manifolds. For easier access, you could remove the bolts of the noise suppressor (see schematic overview at the beginning of this article) and move the noise suppressor to the back of manifold, allowing a better access to the lower bolts. I described that procedure in the 'valve stem seal replacement' section.

The noise suppressor is nothing but a piece of plastic with some isolation, together with the engine cover it prevents noise from the injectors:

Again, I didn't remove the noise suppressor, notice the lack of space you have. No space for anything bigger than a 1/4" swivel. Time to start unbolting. I started at 2 bolts near the firewall, which in my opinion where the worst to get at:

Later (see second part at the end of this section) I did remove the intake manifolds for the second time, and this time I removed the noise suppessor. Acces was a lot easier now, and without swivels:

It's up to you which procedure you use. See section 'valve stem seal replacement' for more pictures about this procedure.

The bolts where sometimes very hard to see. I used a small electric torch:

A removed bolt, nicely sticking to the grease ;-) :

When all lower bolts are removed, pass on with the upper bolts, which are relatively easy:

When all bolts are removed, detach the left intake manifold from the cylinder head. Notice the intake gaskets. On the photo it looks like 6 separate gaskets, but they aren't. These are 2 massive gaskets, bolted with other bolts (not the bolts you removed!) to the cylinder head. Therefore, you can't remove these gaskets now, you have to remove the other manifold for that.

When replacing the gaskets (which I didn't), just must replace both gaskets and you cannot replace the gaskets of 1 bank only....it always requires to remove both manifolds:

Here you see the bottom of the intake manifold. Notice the attached DK motor. The black trim is the noise suppressor. The arrow is showing the connection hose of the fuel evaporative vent system. The hose is going from the intake manifold to the evaporative purge valve. This hose can't be disconnected with the manifold installed (unless you are detaching the DK motor), so may be its a good time to replace it now while your at it. In my case the hose was hardened, cracked and brittle. You can use any ordinary 8mm fuel hose for this:

After cleaning things up and degreasing the connecting surfaces (the gaskets and the intake manifold) I put some sealant on the surfaces. Don't overdo this. It looks like a heavy coat of sealant, but it isn't. Just a thin layer. My workbench is a bit messy here but it was getting late and I was in a real hurry...:

This part was added later, at February 2005: later on, I developed again false air problems. When replacing my valve stem seals, I decided to remove every intake gasket (because both manifolds are removed anyway) to reseal them with sealant. I took some pictures while doing that.

Both intakes removed:

Removing the intake gaskets, just a couple of 13mm nuts:

Removed intake gaskets from one bank:

Notice how thick they are:

Cleaning the gaskets. These are still the original ones from '87 (build date Nov 1987 model year 1988):

Notice the cracks. Normally this is a good reason to replace them, but I assumed the sealant will do its job properly:

Cleaning and degreasing the surfaces of the intake ports, gaskets laying on top of the valve cover:

Applying sealant, one intake gasket already installed:

And installing the manifold. I used a little to much sealant..hmm...:

That was about it. After this I reinstalled the manifolds. Don't overtighten those manifold bolts, it isn't necessary. Just 10 NM (7 ft-lb) will do. Start in the middle and work your way round. Use grease again for the socket, to prevent those bolts falling out when installing. Furthermore, the reinstallation is pretty much the reversal of removal.

There has to be a reason why even new intake gaskets seem to fail again over a certain period of time. I think it has something to do with the manifold support brackets mounted onto the valve cover, as shown here:

Just make sure the brackets are in place, the rubber mount is still in one piece and that the manifold is bolted tight to the brackets. A lot of people seem to remove the plastic ignition wire guides but if you don't reinstall the small nuts of the guides, the manifold isn't bolted to the brackets anymore...this put to much stress to the intake gaskets. Make sure both brackets are securely mounted to the manifold.

The next picture shows the manifold tightened to a support bracket, without the ignition wire guides. I used a thick washer between the bracket and the nut (remark: I got this washer from a set of discarded wire guides..they are simply to remove from the guides):

Total amount of parts and cost:
None. Just some sealant and a new purge valve hose.

Total amount of time:
At least a full day.

Skills needed/difficulty level:
Definitely good technical skills. Don't drop the nuts into the valley.

Satisfactory level after the job done:
Smooth idle now. Don't do just one manifold like I did the first time, but do them both and also seal the gaskets between the gasket and the cylinder head.

Story by Sean750.

If you would like to add any comments, remarks and/or corrections to this procedure, feel free to email Mike Oswald and we'll put it on our site. Share your experiences with us so others may benefit from it.